Mönch, Jungfrau and Fischerhorn

I kindly ask if we recommend climbing the Mönch and the Jungfrau in late May, and tell me the difficulty of the climb.
I would also like some information on Fischerhorn. You can do without skis in late May? How is crevassed glacier Ewingschneefeld, it is dangerous to do so without skiing? How is the transition of the Tower on the summit ridge?
Thank you.

Giovanni Botticelli

 

For these your questions I have consulted with my friend mountain guide Giamba Campiglia(Mountain Air: you can find her address on our site, in the page Alpine Guides), Collaborator of CLUB 4000 and expert Oberland, recently returned from his own ski touring weeks in the Swiss mountains.

Here is the information you requested:

- Mönch: This is a little challenging climb on mixed terrain, 450 meters in altitude, along the southeast ridge and then east; difficulty of II degree, slopes on ice until ° 45, 3 hours from Mönchsjochutte hut (essential to book!).
Many climbers (so I did too) climb this peak (the easiest Oberland after the two Fiescherhorn) "passing" as they head from the Jungfraujoch to the hut (1 now): joints under the south wall of the Mönch leave bags , skis and equipment varies and only with ice ax and crampons (and photo machine) up and down before going into the hut.

- Jungfrau: Climb similar to the Mönch, which is often combined, biggest drop (700 meters), south-east ridge, mixed terrain, II degree of rock slopes of 35-40 °, 3-4 hours of Hut.
On skis you can climb to the terminal crevasse where he began the slope leading to the Rottalsattel; on this saddle on the ridge to the summit were laid 14 iron bars at 20-40 meters away, some with security rings at staging points.

ATTENTION !: downhill from both of these peaks, slopes exposed to the sun is easy to slip on "hooves" that form under the crampons. To overcome this frequent and dangerous problem, either place the crampons for the very useful anti-hoof, I do not understand why they are still so little known and used by mountaineers plaques.

optimal time for the climb: both judge that, if you want to go skiing, the month of May is a good month.

- Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn:
1 ° - even for someone who is not a collector 4000 you can ride those two peaks and traverse along the southeast ridge starting from Mönchsjoch Hut, along the south-east ridge of the first (800 m from the glacier, 4-5 hours, 1 2 ° degree), and then continuing on the north-west of the second ridge (now 1, 1 degree);
2 ° - the month of May is suitable for climbing them on skis but not to climb them on foot, even using snowshoes, because the crevasses are covered but treacherous and therefore the danger is not to be underestimated. The recommended time to walk up these like other Oberland peaks (but not only these) is from mid-July onwards. E 'should be noted that in July the glacier is more covered than in August. In principle, however, in the summer, the crevasses of the glacier you quote, unless there has been an unexpected heavy snowfall, are more "visible" in the spring. I have climbed these peaks in September and always in this month I climbed the Monch and Jungfrau with no problem;
3 ° - in my opinion, ski Oberland ( "ice") may be useful in the long reign of shifting gears between the shelters, but do little in the ascent of these two peaks as the others (Monch and Jungfrau);
4 ° -the summit ridges of both do not present any great difficulties.

That's all. Good climbs.

Guide books: Berner Alpen, vol. IV, CAS

Luciano Ratto