Information on the streets for the Grand Combin

26/09/2014 22:50 #1405 da Marzio Roncelli

Savo analyzing from having to wanting to make the ascent of the Grand Combin.
I chose one of the Italian-Swiss from Glacier on.
Pero 'I find information if it is possible even in alpine skiing. Looking at the map and Quach mountaineering reports it seems that there are no problems to connect to the normal Swiss way Valsorey.

Someone can 'confirm this?

thank you all

Please Log in to join the conversation.

29/09/2014 11:36 #1406 da Flavio melindo
I turned the question to our mountaineering consultant Guide Pier Mattiel Who very kindly he responded in great detail, well beyond the specific request. Thank you once again for his willingness Pier.

Reply immediately to the question, then we can give any other advice (if needed)

The use of the skis on this front, it becomes very difficult, as well as choose the right time .... The climb to the shelter and then to Amiante hill is almost all a lot of steep terrain, with southern exposure, the proportion ranges from the 1500 3300 ... connecting with the way the Swiss ski mountaineering, from Valsorey, yes it is technically not difficult, over the Col de Sonadon 3500 mt. (Which is also where you go of course requires great snow conditions, but other than that it's a long steep counter slope, (late more than 40 °) to go in sideways / down, facing south with the Chamonix-Zermatt) ... and if you plan the same day, returning to the starting point, we must think of it in the afternoon in the opposite direction .... Basically, in my opinion, all you can do, (there is nothing impossible) but personally, unless you have a clear idea of ​​the place and conditions do not recommend it for skiing .... you are likely to take a walk without using them ...... the climb from this side done on foot, at the right time (little snow so ...) is rather rewarding and above all wild.

In my humble opinion, the most interesting ways to climb the Grand Combin and simultaneously make the crossing of the three peaks are:

Skis in late spring, More or less when the snow level to the south is over 2500 mt .; to have a reasonable sull'assestamento tranquility of the same high ...
Starting from Bourg Saint Pierre (actually a little above, going by car a short paved road) and then to the ref. Cabane du Valsorey to 3030 mt.
Hence the next day the Col du Metin 3600 mt. about, of which a good half of skis, then the slope rears up and keep the skis, therefore depends on the technical capabilities, whereas the snow will be very difficult (if not, we will find hardly above the optimal conditions .. .)
Reached the hill, take off their skins and descend, at first a bit steep, the coomb below to the north, is not expedient, going crazy trying to do diagonal order not to lose altitude, it is more practical and efficient straight down to the base of the Passage du coluoir Gardien, (3300 - 3350 mt.) the slope dominated by some seracs, which lies between the northern wall of the Grand Combin de Valsorey and the Corridor,
Ripellare and climb on skis down the slope until it succeeds, (here the snow is usually less severe than the Col du Metin ...) then continue on their shoulders skiing, climbing over the seracs in the easiest point, usually a little left to the direction of maximum slope, until you reach the summit plateau, around the 3950 mt. put your skis and soon reach the top of Valsorey, from which easily the main peak of Grafeneire. 4300 mt.
So get down, skis, first briefly in the direction of the plateau once you turn sharply to the right (direction) passing under the Aiguille de Croissant, up to the mountain of the Wall of Cotè, here the slope is very straightens for a good hundred (and something more) meters, divallato which, turn right and easy bumps you reach the top of the Grand Combin de Tsessette 4150 m. about.
At this point we return on their steps to the base of the Mur Cotè; from which the most practical way is to continue to fall along the Corridor, the famous passage exposed to falling seracs .... (With good snow and good skiing skills crossing is fairly quick ...) otherwise necessary to climb the Mur of Cotè and descend along the Passage du Gardien, what already uphill ... in one way or another you reach the plains under, from where you continue to descend north along the glacier to the Cabanne du Panossiere, (2600 mt.) are several kilometers, but with perfect snow goes just a little 'late.
From here still down along the glacier (not for long), until you exit right and follow the summer route that descends into the valley, if all goes well, is always on the skis up to 2200 mt. (If it is perfect also well under 2000 ...) then the path to Fionnay 1500 mt. about; from which public transport you back to Bourg Saint Pierre (bus, train, bus several changes, but they work perfectly ... depending on the time might not be the short ride from Fionnay the first village below, in this case you find a passage .. but it is short ...) and even a hike to return the car, if it is left to the upper parking area.

On foot, usually at the beginning of climbing seasonWhen Spalla Isler is still very snowy, consider that it is a steep slope right in the south between the 3600 and 4200. The Valsorey Hut climb almost obvious path with some little man and some easy passage into the rock in the direction of the col du Metin until 3450 more or less, then bend sharply to the right and pull traversing always slightly uphill to the ground with debris towards a clear shoulder where there is a sheet metal bivouac, the Plateau Coluoir, (you can also reach this point more directly, but it is convenient only if super perfect snow ...).
From just below the bivouac climb slope full rights to the top of Valsosery slope 45 ° and some through easy rock, a brief section in more continuous rock below the summit (outflanked on the right by the collar of Valsorey) from which to snowy ridge easy to Grafeneire. 4300 mt. then as above in crossing the Mur de La Cotè and the top of Tsessette. For the descent the same situation as above, or the Passage du Gardien (which could have a little 'ice by half down) or Corridor with the collapse of seracs potential. Reaching the base of the one part or the other part, continue to the crossing to the Panossiere requires good will to walk, as the kilometers to reach it, that in the skiing are pleasant, walk are "challenging". Otherwise it climbs the Col Du Metin 300 mt. sparse, with a final part a little 'more steep, and it comes down from the hill, crossing slightly, for snow and / or debris up to resume the itinerary made uphill. To do this around without complicate your life ... Very important to evaluate snow conditions and nightly freezing, the snow has to start over 3500 - 3600 and must be rigelata Isler to climb the shoulder, Coluoir du Gardien (if you started off to them) must be in good snow with the little ice limit and only at the very low ... (but nothing is even better ..) because it is not very steep, but the ice quickly becomes very demanding .... If you decide instead to go down along the Corridor, has to be hard and smooth the snow in order to be sure not to make it too long ... ..

The climb from the Italian, Valpelline - Ollomont, is to go up from Glacier (1500 mt.) To the refuge Amiante (3000 mt.) A beautiful winding path in steep terrain, that as you climb becomes steeper, and towards the end almost makes impression hence with D'Amiante (3300 mt.) and then the Col Du Sonadon (3500 mt.), on snow and without difficulty, from the hill begins the most elegant of the ridges to climb to the Grand Combin de Grafeneire, 4300 mt, namely the crest SSO, a long, though not difficult (but still more demanding of the other solutions described) mixed climb .... Upon reaching the main summit go down, first to the top of Valsorey and then along the route of Isler shoulder, (which in this case will be very little snow and therefore somewhat of debris) down to reach the bivouac on the Plateau du Couloir, which in easy crossing of the glacier (some crevice ...) take the Col de Sonadon, and the ascent route. This is definitely the best way to get the rule of the Grand Combin ascent ever (almost) isolated, it will be difficult to meet more than one consortium ... the difficulties in general, as already mentioned are a little higher than other solutions. From here concatenate a crossing becomes logistically complicated, ... .. the best time is in full season with little snow.

Some books and / or reviews, in-season mountaineering, indicate the climb to the Arete du Metin, honestly I traveled more than once and I would not advise her that much, as it's called ridge, but in practice it is a climb in the middle of the slope (Valsorey) up to a few meters from the top .... Crest has really very little and the rock is not even all that great ... It becomes interesting if it makes another type of very much longer and complicated journey ... .that maybe I describe a next time.


Pier Mattiel

Please Log in to join the conversation.

29/09/2014 13:54 #1407 da Marzio Roncelli
perfect. I had the information I needed. thank you so much

Please Log in to join the conversation.

29/09/2014 21:20 #1410 da Flavio melindo
More information about the Grand Combin can be found under the heading "Relations and head of the partners" accessible from the Home Page.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

30/09/2014 18:18 #1411 da Marzio Roncelli
It knows what must I do so from the Valsorey.

The Valsorey winter room is cozy? ie does the stove?

Please Log in to join the conversation.

03/08/2016 18:42 #1458 da Massimiliano Patti
good info :)
Thank you !

The Grand Combin I miss ... I would have liked to climb the three peaks this year, on skis, but I have not had the opportunity.

I had considered the possibility of skiing climb it in the side Valsorey, as described in the first report. I thought I would climb it Panossier side, so you get on and off the same side of the car for logistical simplicity.

Now it seems a bit 'late ... Me propose again as prj ski 2017 ... If anyone is interested and wants to join is welcome :)

I'll take a question: assuming that the slope of the Corridor is a gamble on foot, in your opinion, in scialpistica season is an acceptable risk? (Or at least comparable to staying subassemblies the seracs of Gardien?)
The answer may seem trivial & obvious, but I read more than an opinion for which even under the Gardien is cmq under the shot of seracs for a good hour or so ... (I think to climb the corridor is used by the hour to ' hour and a half, depending on the step)
Indeed, perhaps, if I remember correctly, some of the forum was gone from there?

Thank you in advance for the info.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.191 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum