Channel saudan the Tournette

16/08/2013 12:33 - 16/08/2013 12:35 #1299 da Franz Rota Nodari
Mont Blanc, La Tournette, 4677m: Channel Saudan (or Guide) 1000m / 60 ° / IV / D +
The W side of Mont Blanc dall'Aiguille de Tre-la-Tete in 2011 (with very different snow conditions of course). In green the climb to Sella hut from the Mont Blanc glacier, the Saudan channel in red.

Not even a week passes three fronts are back on the moraine of the Miage to seek their unstable traces of stacked blocks. What could have seemed a failure ([url =] the trip over to the saddle of the last weekend [/ url]) will prove to be really good (albeit expensive for me) attack strategy. We are still talking of a street with a strong taste of mountaineering of the old days and then it was necessary to make inspections that would not directly lead to the summit on the first try, but that would create the conditions. It is these assumptions that traveling fast on the moraine in the dark, attacking fluency in the language of the White Glacier and later the Rochers lead us in 8 hours including stops and especially (!) This time without a hitch, the superlative Capanna Quintino Sella.
Spur of the Tournette has been for years in my sights, but reading the various reports and careful observation of the way, even if from afar, had shown that it was a ridge, so aesthetic, but sfasciumato with low difficulty. Much more attractive and intriguing 1000 meters long gully that runs beside the Gully of the Guides.

The Gully Saudan (in September 2011 dall'Aiguille de Tre-la-Tete) with obviously less snow.

I am this time with Mara and Vim. They are the 11 and we are out of the hut to bask in the sun on a beautiful day. The lunch time and away in the cot to sleep and recover energy. Before dinner we go to patrol the descent to the glacier the next day taking the opportunity to take the snow to melt. After a few hours, all'1: 30, we'll be back on this snow to attack the slope that leads us in the upper basin of the White Glacier. The first stretch of 200 meters with a slope of 50 ° is half in the ice (black, debris, hard and repulsive ...) except a propitious strip of snow pressed next to the rocks. It's over there, we go fast at a time of the summit dome. Beyond this point, from the bivouac, the way Saudan and the Spur of the Tournette There were foreclosed to the visual, so we could not make us any idea about the conditions, but thanks to a photo taken just last week downhill (daytime) from glacier miage. And from that picture you could see a fantastic line of snow and ice continue, the fearless extreme skier (for those times today is repeated more often) Sylvain Saudan had fallen in 1973 "taking away" the previous name of Couloir of Guides.
We are so on the upper plateau and we cross a delicate crevasse area to take us to the base of the 1000 meters of our wall. Even though it is dark pesto and the only light is the sky full of stars that is unbelievable and lightened by some atmospheric dirt that fills our heads of unwanted desires, the majesty of the overhanging wall feels unbending. Even more so when the fronts illuminate the ice wall, which often constitutes the last major obstacle to the road attack: the terminal crevice. A dozen meters of lead on hard snow and ice (with access to a precarious bridge that will not last long) allow us to breathe a sigh of relief when we see that the slope begins to become linear. Among the rocks we also identify our couloir that starts with a funny stretch of snow and couic-couic snow. Just in time because the first lights from the east shed light on the stars in the sky. And now it's a great "pedal" on great snow; So good that, despite steeply falling on the 50 °, you also progress to the side, saving fatigue on calves that shout vengeance. From below, not all the path is obvious. From time to time we look at the photo taken from the bottom and virtually "draw" the line we are following. After another strait to the left we find about an inch of ice to give some pepper to the ascent. The last 200 meters, on the other hand, are back in soft snow and with easy progression, if not for a while a bit delicate. The exit to the sun for the frame then handles us to the crest exactly on the normal Bosses, where strange subjects slither to the summit looking at us and not knowing where the hell we are coming from. In half an hour, throbbing by a strong wind that only rushes here, we reach the summit again for the same time and for the next time we are excited. It will also be that we are alone at the top and it is a rarity. They are the 11. The wind does not allow us to stop and then go fast to Vallot where it gives a slight truce. Still many ropes drag along the crest uphill to the dream of a lifetime ... but perhaps at this moment they seem to be more of a nightmare than the faces they have ... but it is known that only at home they somatize some suffering. In addition to the Dome du Gouter we go down by trails (now a few rocks this season come from here) and aerial ridges at the Pitons des Italiens from Col des Aiguilles Grises. They are the 14. Getting out of the troubled Dome glacier would now be somewhat risky, as suggested by the Gonella Refugee Council heard on the phone days earlier. On my question, I recommend the "desirable" descent from the Cresta des Aiguilles Grises, reassuring me of the presence of the deceased. Both the TCI's guide and Damilano also cite it as an "excellent" alternative to the Dome Glacier if it is too creepy. Done, try it out there. Let's get on Caps des Aiguilles Grises, 3816m for snowy ridge and descending to very unstable scree ridge until you reach the gendarmes. We follow the thread for a first piece until the difficulties become high. Let's try to get off to a channel on the right, as manufacturer's relationships, even with a double, but too dangerous: everything moves to capacity with huge unstable blocks. Siam under 3600. Reluctantly we decided to retrace our steps. We arrive at the Colle des Aiguille Grises the 18 and now the glacier went into shadow, we can then deal with the descent, although given the precarious nature of certain passages will not be a walk. 20 to the refuge we will receive you like excuses rifugista who confesses that he never walked the crest and that indeed few or no one runs now over, especially downhill.
The next day, rapidly we descend to the valley full of new days of White who will leave for a long time in our memories the memories of this latest adventure on one side you do not expect ... Different ways to reach the roof of Europe. Until next time? From where? We'll find out along the way ... the ideas certainly not lacking!

On the tongue of the glacier Blanc, here we are again!

Going up the Rochers White

From Capanna Sella relaxation and the path that we will do the next night.

What do you want more from life?


magnificent location

The next day: the "crepaccetta" terminal

Sunrise on the Tre-la-Tete from Saudan



And up

An ice tract: otherwise the screws what we have brought to do?

Higher and higher

Changing of the guard: Mara takes the lead: we are ruined!

Orka if the heart!

Output honor to me ...


Mara vieniiiiii!

Two worlds ...

People down, people going up

Only towards the summit

Umpteenth time "on top of the world"

downhill contrasts: white-green

Unusual view of Black with the spur of the Tournette right

Towards the Dome des Aiguilles Grises

Vim committed on hardworking towers Aiguilles Grises

Never again for this side. Shall we go up there: I feel bad!

Contrasts on the glacier of the Dome

Maze of crevasses

funny passage

The way Saudan as seen by the Miage Glacier. Only those are 1000 meters: you would not think ...

The climb in green and red. The black dot is the Rifugio Gonella. Fuchsia in the failed attempt to Aiguilles Grises.
Last edit: 16 / 08 / 2013 12: 35 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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