WEISSHORN, N ridge: the most beautiful of the Alps?

23/08/2013 23:02 - 23/08/2013 23:04 #1306 da Franz Rota Nodari
Weisshorn, 4505m: North Ridge -> East Ridge

Da Camptocamp.org

What must have a ridge in order to deserve the title of "the most beautiful of the Alps"? Trivially must have all the characteristics that make it unique: a rocky stretch, a snow / ice, be aesthetic, scenic, elegant ... All these features has precisely the North ridge of the Weisshorn, the giant white Valais that with his 4505m overlooking the valleys of her apron and Tasch and for its tight angle than the other stands isolated and elegant 4000 the Imperial Crown.

Climbed years ago with Gianfranco from his East Ridge, this colossus Valais attracted our attention for some time for a return from its inviting north ridge. Even with Brozio, which lately was shooting a series of beautiful climbs over 4000, he often spoke of this exciting tour. It is so that we do not use a lot to organize the strings: I Brozio and Titty (the Saving Silverman hairdresser 4000); Gianfranco and Fabrizio. Rejected the idea of ​​bringing the car to Randa, Bend of the normal, we start from Zinal Tuesday midday morning. The day was fantastic and the path quickly leads us (in 3h against 4h30 declared) the new Cabane du Tracuit. Spend the afternoon chatting outside and resting in the room. After dinner, the fabulous sunset is the gift that gives us the bunks. Of hundred guests of the hut, only twenty we find ourselves in the room to breakfast in the first round. At 2: 40 it goes. Outside there is an annoying wind that intimidates us for the rest of the day. In 2h30 siam to Bishorn where the wind and the cold make us fear the worst for the crest. The cold lasts for an hour, the wind instead gradually decreases. Equilibristici first steps on rocks with crampons, until we remove them only continue climbing. air passages, crosspieces, shotguns, a few patches of snow are followed with the onset of light and increase the splendor of the landscape. Rope teams ahead of us are slower and force us to stop annoying because it forces some forced to stand still in the biting cold. With the arrival of the sun everything we improve and here we are with two beautiful shots of IV that we deliver to the Grand Gendarme. After a siam across the snow. With beauty and sharp features here we are, after 8h from the refuge, the panoramic summit. As is often said, the trip does not end here: the descent is long and grueling and there will almost 6 hours. We had already traveled up and down, but the memories over time you obfuscate and not remembered how heavy. After the first steep slope of snow and ice, following the sharp ridge of compact blocks. Funny, but inevitably long and slow. Not to mention the unpleasant descent from Frühstückplatz where everything is sfasciumato. And until we reach the glacier, near the shelter, you can not lower our guard. Here the usual squabbles with "fuhrer" manager we pay as we slipped on the tour. Initially we whale There is also the idea of ​​pulling straight downstream, but then having to retrieve the car in Zinal was still only the beginning of the return. However, by the stories found on the net, we thought the much more long day and pulling a bit 'rhythms you could well prove direct descent. The next day, in any case more ripostati, up early to go down in 2h15 Randa where Gian by all possible means (two trains and two buses) back to the car. We, having time, we decide to get going downhill along the valley to St. Niklaus where we will take the train to Visp. Svaccati the lawn of the little park of the station will wait a few hours the good Gian.
A memorable trip. A sublime crossing. An unforgettable ridge. And when the members begin to forget all the problems ... the desire to return to quell'aguzzo horn for another comeback crest in us. Until next time then! We still hope with such a fantastic company to share such an adventure.

Here are the pictures:

Going up to the cabin the majestic west face appears before. And the policeman where we will spend the next day stands isolated

To retreat with the left inviting Bishorn

Rest with a view (Zinalrothorn)

Sunset on the north ridge

Still in the dark at the beginning of the ridge

first double


The snowy ridge lies ahead

Giants Matterhorn, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn

Snow and rock

another double win

And Traversi paretine

Many funny passages

Stretches of icy snow



The Grand Gendarme

On the hill behind the Gendarme


exciting exhibition

Go Titty

Go Bro

beautiful towers

And so to snow

Turning to the Gendarme


We are almost there

Here are the top

The covered ridge

Zinalrothorn and Obergabelhorn: magnificent

sharp descent


Turning back to the top

Last edit: 23 / 08 / 2013 23: 04 by Franz Rota Nodari.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

26/08/2013 16:46 #1307 da Raffaele Morandini
Congratulations to all for the beautiful climb.

The aesthetics and there is no doubt, as to the rest, from the pictures I see that nothing is missing. Finally from your photographs I got a better idea of ​​this spectacular ridge. Thanks for having posted.

Two weeks before I was to Bishorn just to observe the northern ridge of the Weisshorn. There was much more snow and that day by Tracuit are only 2 parties for Weisshorn.

With regard to wind and cold, I believe that the very summit of the hill and Bishorn towards the Weisshorn, are the "preferential" channel of the wind, because I've always found.

You wrote "... the usual arguments with the rifugista [Weisshornhütte]", because the "usual"? I do not know that you have had problems, but you are not the only ones to emphasize the character of rifugista.

How did you think the new Tracuit?

Still good!


Please Log in to join the conversation.

27/08/2013 14:15 #1308 da Franz Rota Nodari
Thanks Raffaele.

Raffaele Morandini wrote: Cosmetic and there is no doubt, as to the rest, from the pictures I see that nothing is missing. Finally from your photographs I got a better idea of ​​this spectacular ridge. Thanks for having posted.

It 's always a pleasure to be able to give information and suggestions.
Taking a lot of pictures ... there's the risk a bit 'to steal the' 'adventure' ;-)
But I have to make an introduction ...
Like here (with your intervention), also to on-ice (looking at the number of reports of visits), I found a greater interest in Brenva and Weisshorn, not for Saudan the Tournette. Saru that I "have cost" a vacuum trip, though the Saudan I loved him so much. Via a little-known and little known for a peak super inflated.
The will is indeed always the same: to transmit something cha goes beyond the guides or the streets iperfrequentate ...

Raffaele Morandini wrote: You wrote "... the usual arguments with the rifugista [Weisshornhütte]", because the "usual"? I do not know that you have had problems, but you are not the only ones to emphasize the character of rifugista.
How did you think the new Tracuit?

The rifugista is famously a bear.
The first year that I wanted to go up to the Weisshorn (2002 / 3) I had tried to book.
There was no room. Likely, being tiny (25 pp).
I could not believe it was July but ... ... early in the season ...
I did call my fellow native German ... there was room ... then we did not go !!!!

In 2008 when then went back to the summit, the quality of the dinner and his gruff be returned to my mind.
A I'm around, I had booked 5 psoti leaving the reserves of the dinner (half board).
Once in comparison with the manager immediately he attacked me and told me that I had said we had dinner (actually then claimed that I had spoken with him and instead I heard the daughter !!!!), that he had cooked for us and that he would had to throw it all away (a bland broth and a plate of "spaghetti" to "ragu '" ????) .... and then we would have to pay the same all over !!! Not so is the concept ... what a way to approach and contact rudely which is annoying.
Anyway half board € 53 ... even no exaggeration ...
... Compared to the € 65 Tracuit.
The new shelter is beautiful, although I do not appreciate much the style of the new hightech sfizzeri shelters (paneling, stained glass windows, corridors psyko ...).
The quotes prices of board: sleeping 25, 45 half board.
Too bad that the "half-board" is intended only dinner and breakfast and go to sleep in all = 70 Fr. Usual half liters of water: 9 Fr.
In short, the bivouacs alive !!!!

Please Log in to join the conversation.

27/08/2013 16:24 #1312 da Raffaele Morandini
Start from where you finished writing: Long live the bivouacs! And not only to the character of certain rifugisti.

Your posts / reports are always exciting, moreover, accompanied by incredibly beautiful pictures ... I always wonder how do you capture them in some bold steps. However I always read with much interest your writings. Sometimes, as in the case of Saudan, I do not intervene because they do not know anything about those areas ... that trouble just by looking at the photos. While the Weisshorn I paid particular attention, we avendoci made more than a thought.

I agree with everything you wrote about the shelters. It made me laugh your story of disputes with "the bear" the Weisshornhütte and did I mention the "persecution" against me of another "Swiss Bear", that of Monchsjockhutte, which, each time, during breakfast, He is asking me if I had paid the bill breakfast too. And all the people present asked him only to me - only Italian - but the amazing thing is that I have been several times and each time it was repeated the same scene. Also for the Monch, the food talk is better not to deal with it. However, we are generalizing and riding a po'i clichés. In fact in some Swiss Hutte you can find yourself very well, of all I would like to mention the two Oberland, the Finsteraarhornhütte and Konkordiahütte. Since you have mentioned the prices, I never understood why the natural mineral water should cost proportionately more beer (?). Regarding the new Tracuit, as I wrote, I preferred the old structure, but I can understand the need for innovation towards, perhaps, the so-called zero impact. In any case it does not really feel like being in the mountains, but rather in a modern hospital ... especially in the hallway. However, personally, I always start prepared to let go everything, because I always think that a refuge, as well as a bivouac, are the alternatives in the open, so all is well. Although in reality, when I happened - and sometimes I just tried - to sleep in the open, then it was not so bad, but ...

Long live the starry sky!


Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.224 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum