Unnamed, but ... anything but anonymous!

08/09/2013 17:32 - 08/09/2013 17:42 #1323 da Daniela Formica
Last of the great peaks of Mont Blanc to be been climbed (19-20 1919 August SL Courtauld and EG Oliver with A.Aufdenblatten and Adolphe Henry and Rey), the Innominata ridge is "... climb varies, very beautiful and interesting; between the classic on S side it is second only to the crest of Peuterey ... "(G.Buscaini - Guide Monti of Italy - Mont Blanc, vol. I °).
"The slope is very strong above with Eccles: the rocky steps are sometimes athletic ... the rock is excellent. The big gully is exposed to falls of stones. The final ridge is steep and very long. "(Vallot-Monte Bianco1) Guide.
Perhaps for these reasons, for which, together with the important difference in altitude and the isolation of the area, I had always heard with almost reverential respect, or perhaps because of maldigerite reminiscences Manzoni, the name initially aroused in me a certain uneasiness.
I then vainly tried for years to identify the lines from several vantage points, finally convincing myself that if, lost and crushed as it was in the midst of the immense south-east of the Black, had even earned a name ... well 'was not worth ... worthwhile to follow it ...
I finally changed my mind when, during the ascent of the Peuterey ridge and, even more, during the endless journey on the Brouillard ridge integral in 2008, I was able to discover with surprise the different profiles and anything but "anonymous" .
Between saying and doing, however, it is known that, in climbing, fits inevitably a number of variables, whose spiteful combinations sometimes intertwine with obstinate ill will against any particular project, delaying for years the realization: it's exactly what you occurred in the case of this climb, so often postponed planned and as many, so that, when unexpectedly the steel impasse is resolved Monday 2 September, the rest almost incredulous and uncertain.
All uncertainty disappears however as soon as weather reports and info on the conditions confirm that, in fact, already knew: last week of beau fixe and top conditions!
Birth then by Beppe Tuesday 3 September with the intention of reaching the bivouacs Eccles directly.
When, having reached the Monzino, though we say fifteen people have already risen with the same intention, the anticipation of an uncomfortable night in crowded and confined spaces of the bivouacs induces us to prefer the warmth of the refuge: so we decide to make the uphill starting directly from the Monzino overnight.
The afternoon passes between naps, chats, sbinocolate the numerous roped hung on the various streets of the surroundings, also unfortunately witnessing the recovery helicopter to a consortium infortunatasi on the Brouillard ridge.
The morning of September 4 we just set off before 2: the glacier of Brouillard is still in good condition. 6,30 to us at bivouacs Eccles, rest, breakfast and again at 7: before we reach the point of the Pic Eccles, through the rocks (fixed ropes) and a short stretch on the snowy side of Freney, then, dropped by twenty meters, the Eccles hill (the good conditions of the Brouillard glacier, however, allow an easy access to the hill also passing by the glacier itself).
Is there any rope around: at the base of the Red Pillar, to direct Peuterey hill towards the White return from the base of the pylons. The helicopter has great pains to recall roped on the Noire and the Brèche des Dames Anglaises.
Frequent discharges disrupt the gullies between the powerful overlying the pillars Brouillard.
The ascent route is completely clean and we follow entirely without crampons, to the base of slanting snow ramp to the left, which you reach after crossing the channel.
The mild temperatures and the absolute absence of wind, allow us to climb without gloves and thin clothing.
The rock passages are in general quite physical; on passing 5b there is a lanyard ring (a little 'frayed) that allows you to clear. The famous passage of the hole, not hard, is very picturesque (photo required!).
The short sharp snow-covered ridges, much photographed and they talk about relationships, at the time, because lack of snow, are less sharp and photogenic.
The long uphill stretch on the right side (in the sense of climb) of the channel is somewhat sfasciumato cause poor snow and we must proceed with care and caution.
The long flush channel, probably because of the presence of a roped that, even in the absence of snow / ice and perhaps by mistake, proceeded at the top in the same channel along the top of the street Innominette.
On the final snowy parts there is a little 'ice, disguised as a modest snow-slush layer.
The Brouillard ridge is in excellent condition; there is again a bit 'of ice on the underlying cross the Courmayeur White.
We are on top at 14: no clouds anywhere, temperature and mild breeze, fifteen people coming and going, talking, greetings, someone takes off with a paraglider.
Excellent condition on the descent to the new Gouter, where we refreshed a bit 'before descending along the underlying spur to the Tete Rousse refuge: we get to 18,30, after crossing the infamous adrenaline gully.

This is a great way, in severe environment, involves considerable physical and psychological effort; mountaineering point of great satisfaction, I was not as impressed by the aesthetic point of view .... but, you know ... disputandum de gustibus non est!
Last edit: 08 / 09 / 2013 17: 42 by Daniela Formica.

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10/09/2013 19:12 #1324 da Raffaele Morandini
Complimentissimi !!!! ... What you could do better on the White?

But sometimes you also give us some pictures, more than anything else for those who, like me, this path will not do it ever.

Still good!


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11/09/2013 10:44 #1326 da Franz Rota Nodari
Big Dani!
Nice Shot.
Paradoxically, as for you, I also have always postponed and sometimes snubbed over other destinations over4000 ...
Next year ... this Innominata to be done ;-) Word of Don Rod..ta Nodari ;-)

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12/09/2013 13:10 #1327 da Daniela Formica
thank you!
... And for the photos ... be patient ... I'm definitely tecnolesa : Blush: But post photos on our forum is just a little 'complicated .... !! : Unsure:

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