MONT BLANC: skiing the top of the Alps

22/05/2015 16:39 - 22/05/2015 16:49 #1432 da Franz Rota Nodari
MONT BLANC, 4810m:

Salita: Voie Royale and the Dome des Gouter Ridge Bosses from Rif.Grands Mulets

Descent: from the North Wall of the voie Historique (Balmat-Paccard) and the Grand Plateau

In blue the climb from the ridge of Dome. In red the descent from the wall N and the Grand Plateau.
(From: "Neige et Glace Mixte", F.Damilano)

After 6 times on the White top for more than six different ways yet to come once at the top could not be more appealing to me. In fact every time you crush this wonderful (especially the variety of slopes and roads leading to it) summit had in me the same charm as the first time. And this time could still be in its way a first. Change the tools with which you arrive: no two spades and mountaineering boots, but two aces and "diving suits" mountaineering. Get off your skis from the peak in the Alps had her why and could not miss my game bag. That's how well this adventure, delayed for years because of doubts about the feasibility of the descent from the North, often in poor condition (for an average skier like me), she knocked on the door of the projects and dream has become reality.


After a winter season as usual recently devoted to ski tourism, but mainly to the falls, and only 4 trips at altitude (never enough actually to this peak, between the 3400 and 3800 meters) might have seemed a gamble to try the climb to the summit, ... but we are confident in our "cross" made of ravanare ghiacciatorie. I'm with the steel Mara, which feeds many doubts about his ability sciatoria the North ( "Who does not? If you will be in good snow you'll see that there will be no problems!"), And Anna Albe. The trip will be a success. After a heavy snowfall on Friday until at low altitude we have doubts about the feasibility, but postponing the climb to Monday, we hope that the snow has settled down. As we all patrons of Refuge Grands Mulets, which fill it like an egg. I stayed here overnight in 2002 with Gianluca and Daniele return from my first time ... and well remembered in a lovely place. Having failed to convince shareholders about spending the night outdoors, I enjoy at least the dinner "with a view" and stand a short almost sleepless night for the roosters yokels. In the darkness of our lights we are already all in single file on the Voie Royale, the North ridge of Dome des Gouter. After 500 meters the slope obliges us to put skis on their shoulders ... will be the leit-motive of the day ... But the track is good and it is going well. Meanwhile comes the dawn and inflames the highest peaks, but the expected mild wind proves constantly and annoying reality. The loss of my piumetto ( "on-ice") while I remove him from his backpack worries me a lot for the rest of the day (it will be the only drawback of this trip ;-(). Here it is the summit: charming and attractive: arrive.

Reached the Vallot a moment of indecision blocks us. It makes sense to continue with skis on their shoulders the hard ridge of the Bosses (for 350 vertical meters!) When most lets them down? To see her and to see the sun 5 traces of yesterday seems hard snow and therefore not trivial ... even saw how exposed ... Take the plan B: go to "see" up close and if we do not convince you continue to Col Brenva and the Corridor: a descent still interesting. Once the summit, with the "breeze" tense that does not give up the hope of having a remollo sun seems vain. We can catch a break in the accesses and we for a moment at the top for themselves: super! It starts! The first part is as hard as marble, and must be very careful to ice; There are, however, areas with more "grippy snow". It is when we enter the north that the matter changes and the snow is great for skiing fun. Maximum attention, but it comes down to great. Indeed, perhaps it would be better to take it higher. However we have to hurry to the looming seracs. To think that this route seems to have been that of the first ascent of 1786 by Balmat and Paccard really makes an impression. Ricongiuntici with the normal route of the Grand Plateau, the rest of the skiing will be a succession of majestic views of huge seracs ... sometimes a bit 'too incumbent, as when at one point you cross a maze of ice blocks recently plummeted from above ... I do not know how you can think of getting out of here "because as much in the dark you can not see what's above our heads !!!". Passed the shelter with more remollata via snow (finally!), But always to interpret we come to another key step: the Jonction. We'll find out later to have been the scene of an accident shortly before our passage ... the stretch is short, but it will soon be impossible. Still some nice curve ambientone and we are at long traverse back to Plan de l'Aiguille. When banchettiamo in Chamonix and we look up we still can not believe the further beautiful adventure that Her Majesty White has also given us this time. Get down on your skis from the Roof of Europe is priceless! Ops ... Roof of the Alps mean ... I say the roof of Europe is another ... ;-)

more technical info on the conditions to:

Ski gliding from the Aiguille du Midi. And then we'd be fools ... it gets worse!

It will take a pulley to make all (or most) of the North Dome ridge walk skis on their shoulders?

In the stretch of troubled Jonction. Indicated the refuge of the Grand Mulets.

A new perspective for the Tacul

Immersed in the glacier

Towards the Mulets, where we will meet many more or less known ... (Mariosnow on-ice)

The Dome des Gouter right with the north ridge, the place of the ascent

The step that leads to the refuge

afternoon relaxation

Dinner with a view ;-) is...

... Process with a view ;-)

The refuge with Midi and couloirs Cunningham and Cosmiques

Alba arriving on the crest of the Dome

Towards the Vallot hut and the ridge of the Bosses

The Corridor Col Brenva left, the North (voie historique), the ridge of the Bosses

North: WOW

Friends on the North

Above Petit Bosse

Cresta well plotted

Bonatti Couloir, Aiguille de Tre-la-Tete and Dome de Miage


The net

It is shortly. The background knowledge of the old crest of Brouillard

Turin coming from the Midi

And 'White seventh time!

Triune. With partner ever. Six times I was with you here!

The storm appears Albe

The MB of Courmayeur and in the distance Grivola and Granpa

Small seem like the Grandes Jorasses from here. Background on Weisshorn, Valais and the Matterhorn

And down by the North crest marble

fun snow (photo by Anna)

beautiful slopes

Ambientone! (Photo by Alberto)

ice "Studios"


The proportions .. Anna compared to the majesty of the White


And here we are again at the Grand Mulets ... and then home ... with a new experience in your pocket!
Last edit: 22 / 05 / 2015 16: 49 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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